Thursday, June 16, 2011

Berlin

I arrived in Berlin in the late evening and checked into my hostel, which at first, seemed like it was  a bit out of the way (despite statements on their website that they were 5 minutes from Alexanderplatz).  I had sent a few Facebook messages to Ryan Shane, a pledge of mine back in my days as the Pledge Ed.  He was in Berlin on some organized trip and so I dropped off my stuff to go meet him at a beer hall in downtown Berlin in an area called Hackeshermarkt.  After a round or two, we decided to wander.  We didn't get very far as we ventured upon another restaurant/beer garden with umbrellas decorated with one of my all-time favorite beers, Weihenstephan.  We managed to put in an order just before last call and enjoyed the foamy deliciousness before trying to find a new place to hang out.

It was a Wednesday, so it seemed like there wasn't much going on (I would later discover there's something happening somewhere in Berlin every night of the week).  But I walked up to a cabbie and asked if he could take us to a pub/club/bar/anything that was still open.  He drove us a little less than 10 minutes to a cool pub where we ran out the clock.

The next day was a "get my life back in order" day, as much as I would have preferred to explore and go sightseeing.  I researched future hostels, flights, trains, etc, did laundry (which took forever...had to do 3 cycles in the dryer because it sucked so much), and went out to Alxanderplatz to try to find a new pair of shoes because of the brand new pair of New Balances I had "magically disappeared" in Sarajevo.  That took a surprisingly long time as well because a) finding a shoe that fits isn't always easy in the states, let alone in Europe, b) Germans aren't exactly known for style and everything was a little wierd, and c) their system is not like ours in the states and it's more of a "stack all the shoeboxes in the middle of the room and let's see if people can find shit on their own" kind of system.

That night I returned to my hostel to discover I had four new roommates.  They were all students in University in Milan, who were in Berlin to attend a conference/series of lectures in Urban Planning, their major.  The group was comprised of one Bulgarian, two Italians, and one Chinese who called themselves the "Superfreaks" based on the Rick James song.  They were all very friendly and invited me out with them that night.

We all decided to grab some dinner at a Mexican joint (I was just trying to be easy about things, having just met these folks, and I would definitely have preferred sausages and beer).  After dinner I rented a bicycle so I could ride with the Superfreaks to Weekend, a club near Alexanderplatz, rather than split up and take the metro.

We got to the club and really enjoyed ourselves.  I personally really enjoyed the upstairs balcony bar where we were given great views of Berlin until after the sun came up.  The highlight of the night though, was the fight.

Some guy (I think he was American, although the Superfreaks disagreed and said he was German...but let's be honest, I'm the only native English speaker and as an American, I can tell a New York dickhead when I see one) burnt Francesca, one of the Italian Superfreaks with his cigarette.  Rather than apologize, he just tried to dance up on her and hit on her.  Stefan, the Bulgarian Superfreak, stepped in to protect his friend and--not being particularly rude or anything--simply stepped in between New York Dickhead and Francesca.  Taking this as an offense, New York Dickhead started having words with Stefan.

This quickly escalated.  Filippo, the other Italian Superfreak, didn't much like New York Dickhead getting in his friends' face.  A pushing match ensued, followed by Stefan and New York Dickhead going toe-to-toe in the club.  They got right in each others faces, baseball manager v. umpire style, and after a few seconds, New York Dickhead smashed Stefan into a wall.

I wasn't about to let this go down in the club, especially since the Superfreaks had been so nice to me.  I headlocked New York Dickhead, pulled him off Stefan, and started throwing kidney shots.  The Bouncer ran up, pulled me off New York Dickhead, and threw New York Dickhead out of the club.  This came as a surprise considering that in the States, anyone remotely involved in a fight is instantly booted from the club.  I was impressed that the bouncer recognized New York Dickhead as the instigator and threw him--and only him--out of the club.

We went on about our business for another two hours or so and enjoyed sunrise from the outdoor balcony of the club.  The Superfreaks had a lecture to go to that morning, so we all decided it was time to go home.  We made our way out of the bar.  I was wondering if New York Dickhead was going to be waiting outside, but I didn't see anyone when I walked out with Francesca and Lei (Lei was the Chinese member of the Superfreaks for those keeping score at home).  The three of us walked over to the bike rack where we started unlocking our bikes and waiting for Stefan and Filippo to come out.

I was just chatting and joking around with Lei and Francesca when I noticed that Filippo and Stefan had emerged from the club and were walking away from us, directly towards a group of 3 guys.  I thought to myself, "oh shit, I hope that's not New York Dickhead with his dickhead friends."

I began walking after them but the fight instantly started.  They were a good distance away, and by the time I'd run over there, the fight was already about over.  I started pushing and pulling people (Filippo and Stefan had been fighting 2 on 3) and trying to de-escalate the situation.  It took quite a long time, but I was eventually able to convince one of the more sober dickheads to get his friends back home.

Stefan grabbed his bike and pedaled off.  Filippo had one hell of a shiner, one of the best I've ever seen, so I went to grab him some ice from the club.  Having nothing to put it in, I let him use my tshirt.  The shirt was red anyway, so I figured that it at least had a chance to be salvaged if any blood got on it haha.

We biked back home and went to sleep.  The next day Stefan went to the hospital to check himself out.  He messed up his thumb and had some kind of soft cast put on but the real damage was his fractured skull.  He was fine, it's worse than it sounds.

Needless to say, the Superfreaks missed their lecture.  While Stefan was at the hospital, Francesca, Lei, Filippo and I all headed out to see a few sights.  We went out to Potsdamer Platz, saw fragments of the Berlin Wall, its old location, and the Sony Center.  We got some coffee around there, which I promptly spilled all over my balls when we sat down.  I was uncomfortable for a while after that, but my jeans protected me from serious pain, I suppose.

We walked around a few parks and eventually found ourselves at the Reichstag.  We walked from the Reichstag to the Bradenburg Gate, and then to the Holocaust Memorial.  It was very interesting to be in a place of such historical significance, as well as to try to understand German attitudes toward their history in World War II and the Holocaust.
Berlin Wall at Potsdamer Platz

From left to right: Filippo, me, Francesca, Lei at the Reichstag

Bradenburg Gate

Holocaust memorial

Holocaust Memorial
That night, I helped out making food at the hostel.  One of the managers came in to make some kind of stew for everyone, along with sausages.  I got sausage detail.  They were simple and delicious.

After dinner, I went out with Francesca, Lei, and a group of Irish girls we'd met.  I can't remember why Stefan and Filippo didn't join; i can only assume it had something to do with the injuries.  We drank for a while at the hostel where they had this beer that was in a dark bottle with a white label that only read, "BIER."  It seemed a little sketchy at first and reminded me of Dharma Initiative beer cans from LOST.  Still, it was one of those things like, "ok...I gotta try that bier, obviously."  It was pretty damn good, too.  Between the few of us who were drinking it, we killed the hostel's supply of BIER.

We ventured out for a little while in our area of town, just looking for a bar or something along those lines.  We didn't find much, but did happen upon a group of extremely emo-gothic looking dudes who instantly started drunkenly hitting on the Irish chicks.  They invited us out to a party they were going to.  Under normal circumstances, I would tend to avoid people dressed in black jean jackets with skulls painted on the back, tight pants, chains, all manner of piercings, and mohawks/other stupid haircuts.  But hey, I was in Berlin and was quick to say, "absolutely."

The Irish chicks were instantly sketched out.  "I don't know who these guys are.  They're weird.  I don't know where we are.  I don't think this is safe."

"Yes, they're weird.  I know where we are.  You don't have to come if you don't want to."

So we get to this abandoned-looking building, covered in spray paint, and we hear music blasting through the walls.  It was about to be my first experience with a Berlin "squat party."  It is exactly what it sounds like.  People squat in a building and throw a party.  It's fairly common.  We walked in and there was a girl working the door who said, "Entry is 3-5 Euros."

"Wait, so we can pay three or five?"

"Yes."

"Ok.  Uh, three."

It was the opposite of my scene.  There were wall-to-wall emo gothic kids.  I went down into the basement and there, I started to get a little creeped out myself.  It was like a vampire den.  I went back upstairs.  We ordered a few 1 Euro beers for the road (cheapest in Berlin), and headed out.  Interesting experience, to say the least.  But it felt very..."Berlin."  Whatever that's worth.

The next day, the Superfreaks all had to go to one of their lectures, so I prepared to head out for another day of exploring.  Just as I was about to leave, Stefan returned, saying that the lecture was being given in Italian, a language he does not speak (which I thought was odd, considering he's in a University in Milan).  So he and I went out to explore.  We wanted to go up the huge skytower to get views of the city.  We bought our tickets expecting to go straight up, then realized we had a number and would have to wait over two hours until we'd be called to go up.



The waiting sucked, but we got a chance to explore the area surrounding Alexanderplatz a bit.  There was some kind of rolling party that was going on, DJs on the back of trucks blasting their beats out to a crowd drunkenly following them.  I have no idea why it was going on, but it looked pretty cool.


Once we got in, an elevator shot us to the top where we exited the elevator to a dense cloud of tourists all crammed against the railings trying to get the best view.  We spent a while trying to see the whole 360-degree view, fighting little children and old people along the way (just kidding).  We quickly tired of the crowds, but still wanting to see the view we walked up one floor to the swanky restaurant.  We took a seat near the window hoping nobody would notice us, but we stood out a little...

Stefan, complete with his battle scars on his forehead and his bandaged arm, just out of frame
We nursed that one extremely overpriced beer for about an hour as the restaurant rotated around, giving us awesome views of downtown Berlin.

After the tower, we went back to our hostel.  I grabbed my bike and headed out for the East Side Gallery.  It's something that I was most excited to see in Berlin and was happy to have gotten the chance to see it.  The East Side Gallery is a 1+ km section of the Berlin Wall which is still standing and was painted by dozens of artists.






That night was Saturday and we were all very excited to go out to a famous club we'd all heard about called Berghain.  It was supposed to have amazing music and be something worth experiencing in Berlin.  Unfortunately, the Irish chicks joined us and dressed like they were about to go clubbing in Dublin or something.  They stuck out like sore thumbs in the line to enter Berghain and were immediately denied at the door.  We were denied as well for having been associated with them.  This pissed me off, but there wasn't much we could do.  We figured we'd try again later.

We walked a little ways away until we heard loud music coming from somewhere.  Tracing the source of it, we found a huge outdoor party.  We went in there and partied for hours, having a great time.  Once the sun started coming up, most people decided it was time to go home.  I, however, decided to give Berghain another try.  I went with Francesca and Lei and when we got back to Berghain we discovered that the line at 6am was bigger than it had been at 1am.  I was astounded.  We got in line and began waiting.  All of a sudden the Irish girls appeared to give it another try with us.  I wasn't at all pleased about this.  They were also like 19 years old, which made them stand out.  At 23 I was even on the young side for Berghain, but far more acceptable than 19.  Knowing we'd never stand a chance while they were with us, I decided to cut my losses and head back to the hostel.

The next day, Sunday, was the Superfreaks' last day.  We went back out to Hackesher Markt and got some delicious german sausages, sauerkraut, pretzels, mustard, and beer.  Ah, what a country.

We were going to go explore a bit more, but Francesca needed to get some more contacts first, so we headed out to find her some new ones.  We hopped on the train to the Ostbanhauf and our plans immediately changed.  About a minute out from the station, we saw a massive party going down across the river.  Uh, yep.

We got Francesca her contacts and immediately went to find that party.  When we got there, we discovered a two DJ set going down right on the banks of the river.  We went in and had an amazing time.  We hung out and met people and partied until the sun set over the river.  After that the party died down a bit.  While it was winding down, two friends from Dubrovnik met up with us.  Nick, a Kiwi, and Brittany, who I'd flown from Croatia to Germany with.  It was cool to see them and hang out again.

We went and grabbed some dinner before venturing out to find our spot for the night.  We went back to Berghain, just to see if there was anything happening.  Once we arrived, we were denied at the door, but for a different reason.  According to the bouncer, "we can't let in any more people.  This is the same party from Saturday night, and it'll end Monday afternoon.  If you haven't gotten in yet, I can't let in new people."

Uh, so you're telling me there is a 3 day long party going down and I'm not invited?  Well that sucks.  We messed around in the area a bit longer before Francesca and I decided to head back to the hostel.  The Superfreaks woke me up at around 5am to see them off.  I was sad to see them go, we'd had a great time.

Monday I met up with Nick and Brittany again and we got some more delicious German food and German beer.  On Brian Veber's recommendation, I decided we'd all go check out the Deutsches Historisches Museum.  It didn't disappoint.  It was a very cool museum that featured a special exhibit on the police and gestapo under the Third Reich.  We spent quite a while in there.

Afterwards I went back to my hostel and got some food before I ventured out again.  I went to meet up with my friend Seth from Budapest who was in Berlin for some kind of program.  He and I hung out for a little while as he told me about how much he hated his program and was considering quitting to travel with me for a bit.  Unfortunately he was stuck for the time being because he had lost his passport.

We went out and met up with Nick and Brittany as well as another friend of theirs from their hostel.  There wasn't much going on that night (at least nothing we knew about, again, there's always something happening) so we went out to a pub until it closed and then went back to Nick and Brit's hostel.  This odd gay German in a headdress followed us, which was entertaining at first and then just plain annoying.  We tried to play pool but he kept picking up the balls and trying to juggle or something but he was so drunk he was failing miserably.  We eventually told him to leave, but he refused.  Things got a little awkward for a while but after 45 minutes or so he finally left.

We all just chilled at the hostel for a while until Nick and Brit went up to bed.  Seth and I caught the train to Alexanderplatz where we parted ways.  I went back to my hostel and fell asleep ready to go to Krakow, Poland the following day.

Next post from Krakow...

Friday, June 10, 2011

Dubrovnik

I partnered up with a couple Canadian girls for the bus ride to Dubrovnik.  It was only five hours, which generally I would consider to be a very short trip.  Unfortunately, the bus driver refused to turn on the A/C, so it was a very sweaty and uncomfortable five hours.  He'd flick it on when we approached a Croatian police/border guard stop (of which there are many) and then turn it back off when the officers all left.  I have no idea why.

So we got to Dubrovnik and the girls (who had been to Dubrovnik before) pointed me in the direction of my hostel.  I walked up a hill seemingly going nowhere, found a random switchback in the road, followed that up another hill, and then wandered through what looked like a residential neighborhood until someone shouted out "are you looking for the hostel?"

Turned out that someone was Nik, the son of the hostel owners.  The hostel, called Dubrovnik Backpackers Club, was absolutely awesome.  I met a great group of people, which is always nice, but more than that the hostel itself was a great place.  Big common room, kitchen, outside seating areas, projector TV (perfect for pregames and hangovers), and solid wifi.  Not to mention the family that ran it were some of the nicest people in the world and the mother made amazing food (and lots of it).

The first night everyone hung out at the hostel, playing card games, drinking games, and watching Ali G on the projector.  The next morning I headed out with an American and two Canadian girls (different Canadian girls) to see the city.  We got the bus to the Old Town, and wandered around.  It was a really cool place with a lot to see but it was insanely touristy...just loads and loads of people in dense crowds and tour groups.  Still, we had a great time and we climbed up to the old fortifications and walked all the way around the city.







Later on, we wandered around to a little cove where we all enjoyed a beer.  The American, Joe, and I each got some seafood.  I had some excellent clams, "Dalmatian style" which was basically made it taste lemony fresh.

That night, everyone hung out at the hostel again, same as the previous night.

The next day the Canadian girls asked if I wanted to join them on some kind of three island tour which was organized through the hostel.  I thought it sounded cool so I went for it.  The day ended up being pretty relaxing.  We were out on a boat all day long, got to see some of the interesting surrounding islands, and enjoyed some more great views.

We wandered through some botanical gardens, went swimming a few times, it was great.  The weather didn't quite cooperate and it was overcast all day but it was still a lot of fun.

That night, a large group of people all wanted to go to the club, but I declined.  I think I had a better night at the hostel when I found out the next day that all the clubs were closed and they just wandered the empty streets for a few hours.

The next day at breakfast, a large group of American guys who had just arrived asked if I wanted to join to Lokrum island.  I had planned to climb Mount Srd to get cool views of the city, but Nik said he was going to take us out and show us the best beaches and places to hang out so I absolutely had to join.

We hopped on the bus down to Old Town and had to run though the crowds to make the ferry we were minutes away from missing.  We eventually made it with not a second to spare, and wandered on to find our seats.  The ferry didn't take long and we got some great views of the Old Town fortifications from the water.  We even saw a beach that had been ranked in the top 5 beaches in the world, although Nik doubted the ranking system by saying "I don't know how people think so highly of it.  We think it's not even top 10 in Dubrovnik."

We came ashore and crossed the island (it wasn't very big) to an area where there were big cliffs that we could use to jump into the cool blue water below.  We passed a lagoon, a bunch of peacocks, and arrived at the cliffs.  There was one monster cliff we passed which Nik claimed he enjoyed jumping from, although today wouldn't be a good day for it due to the fact that the water was too still and would hurt too much on impact.  A few of the Americans were afraid of heights anyway (not that I would have jumped from the monster cliff, I'm not stupid), so we went for a few smaller ones, between 5-10m.  The water was pretty cold but the sun was scorching, so it felt good to jump off into the ocean.  I tried my first swan dive, which is notable because I messed up and landed on my head.



After a little while spent swimming and relaxing, we decided to climb to the fortress on the top of the island.  It was annoying to hike in flip flops but it wasn't much of a hike...so no problems.  And the view from the top was awesome



We walked back down, got some food, and ended up hanging out by a lagoon for a few hours before we caught the ferry back.

That night, we met a Peruvian girl and a Canadian who were both studying in Vienna.  I enjoyed speaking Spanish with the Peruvian and it was cool to know exactly where she lived in Lima, because I had been there just a few months prior (even though I wasn't particularly fond of the city).  We got a HUGE meal prepared by the mother of the house.  It was some traditional Croatian stew...basically a meat n' potatoes thing, which seems like it's the staple of every diet in the world.  It was delicious and she kept piling the food on to the point that we were all completely stuffed and had to tell her--with a serious tone--that she wasn't allowed to keep feeding us or we'd all die from overeating.

After a few hours of uncomfortable digestion we decided to grab a few beers and head out to Copacabana Beach to hang out and drink for a little while.  I said I knew where to go (which I did...at one point at least) so everyone followed me until I realized I was lost.  We had an interesting wander through darkened streets until we finally found the beach.  From the beach I did know the way back and was able to guide everyone...although they were all understandably doubtful of my ability to get us home.

The next day I just hung out for a few hours until Brittany--an Australian girl--and I got a ride to the airport for our flight to Germany.  She stayed in Munich while I had to wait a few hours for my connection to Berlin.  It was one of the easiest layovers I've ever had.  Plenty of good beer to drink.

Next post from Berlin